Into the Next Million-City

This morning, I packed my belongings and then went to the massage parlor. However, nobody was there. Fortunately, the room next door was not locked and my bicycle was still there. After having noodles for breakfast and buying some drinks, I set off at 10:20.

I was immediately back on the G312 heading east. However, progress was not as fast as yesterday because there was neither a downhill section nor a strong tailwind. I also did not really feel particularly motivated or energetic to ride. It is probably a good thing that a longer break awaits after today’s stage. Perhaps the weather also played a role, as it was already oppressively hot and sweat-inducing from the very beginning.

After about 46 kilometers, I took my first break and bought a large bottle of fruit juice. A Chinese man of Kazakh descent happened to be delivering drinks to the small shop and promptly gave me an additional liter of green tea. Even after the break, however, I still did not feel full of energy. I told myself that I could at least make it through the first 80 kilometers, while constantly fearing that something unexpected might happen. But nothing did. After a little more than 80 kilometers, a big-city atmosphere slowly emerged—residential blocks were everywhere around me—so I took a second break. Soon afterward, the skyscrapers of Ürümqi appeared in the distance, and the road climbed more and more. With the reduced speed and slightly elevated heart rate, the heat felt even more oppressive.

After navigating the traffic jungle of the four-million-inhabitant metropolis—still constantly climbing uphill—I arrived at my booked hotel at around 5:40 p.m. However, they would not accommodate me. Their explanation was that the hotel had only recently opened and the registration system for foreigners was not yet functioning. Sweaty and somewhat tired, I found this rather annoying. Fortunately, the receptionist handling my case booked another hotel nearby, about 500 meters away. Once I arrived there, I could finally say, “I’ve made it.”

I also sent this message to Suliya, as we had arranged to have dinner together. No sooner had I finished showering than she arrived at my hotel. We then took a taxi to a vegan restaurant that I had found beforehand. There we also met Romain, whom I had gotten to know through the WhatsApp group for cyclists in China. He is traveling westward, and our exchange was fascinating because I will be riding at least part of the route he has already completed, and vice versa.

The conversation was so engaging that we were eventually asked to leave when the restaurant wanted to close. We continued talking outside on the street until shortly before midnight. By the time I returned to my hotel, it was almost 2 a.m., because Suliya and I continued our conversation for quite some time afterward, having talked less with each other during dinner. But now I am on a vacation from cycling, so getting a little less sleep is perfectly fine.