The vastness of Kazakhstan

After yesterday’s tough ride, I got up late again this morning and spent some time writing my diary before setting off at 11:20. At least that’s 10 minutes earlier than yesterday—and with enough sleep. So things are moving in the right direction.

I first rode into the village to buy some supplies. Then I spent the entire day riding along the main road A-33 on perfect asphalt—what a pleasure!

At first, not much happened, and I thought there wouldn’t be much to write about today—but then things picked up.

At one point, there was a dromedary by the roadside that seemed frightened of me. It ran away and even got tangled in a fence—sorry, dear camel, I didn’t mean it. Later, I realized why: a man on a motorcycle was herding horses, even across the main road. I probably looked similar to a motorcycle, which caused the misunderstanding.

The vastness of Kazakhstan reminded me of America—maybe before tectonic shifts they weren’t that far apart? I’d have to check that. The difference: distances here are in kilometers. The next town, Beyneu, was shown as 272 km away. I hope to get there by Sunday evening, as I’ve already booked a train across the border into Uzbekistan. It’s the only option since the road is closed and the border is only open by train.

I took my lunch break after a climb with a fantastic view, with my odometer showing almost exactly 50 km. The scenery looks even more impressive in real life than in the photos.

After a fast descent, I reached a lowland area, supposedly only a few meters above sea level. Again, it reminded me of America—Monument Valley! I’ve never been there, but I’ve seen it in many Western movies.

Just before climbing out of the lowland, I suddenly saw another cyclist ahead: Osugi from Japan. He’s been traveling for two years and four months, starting in America and now likely on his way home. He had also booked a train ticket, but one week later than mine. We rode together for about four kilometers before parting—he turned onto a gravel road straight into the headwind, which looked like the mud I had yesterday, while I stayed on the main road with a side headwind. Even though it was brief, it was great to meet him. I’m curious about the photos he promised—hopefully the detour is worth it, especially with all the luggage he’s carrying!

As I climbed the hill, a car pulled up beside me, gave me a thumbs-up, and asked where I was from. They were two Germans with German plates, and their car had “Hamburg - Shanghai” written on it. They were probably part of the New Silk Road Rally. https://www.newsilkroad.de/gruppen-reisen/moderne-seidenstrasse-mit-dem-auto/

At the top, another breathtaking view awaited: a straight road stretching into the distance, power poles to the right, and otherwise endless steppe (apparently the word “steppe” comes from Kazakh).

About 20 km before my destination, I took another short break. I was riding well today, but I kept reminding myself to control my pace—especially near the end of a stage, I tend to go too fast. As I leaned against a road sign post, a Russian man stopped to talk. He had driven all the way from Moscow to experience the nature here. Before leaving, he offered me water, saying he had a 30-liter tank, but I already had enough, so I declined.

With about an hour to go, I calculated I’d arrive before 19:45—an hour earlier than yesterday. But just 3 km before the destination, a black car stopped me, and three Kazakh men got out. Like everyone, they asked where I was from and then gave me gifts: a bag full of bread, a bottle of water, and a bottle of what they called “Amerikanski Kola.” Of course, I couldn’t refuse. After a quick photo together, they drove off again—they must have followed me just to give me these gifts. Truly incredible!

In the end, I arrived around 19:55, still in bright sunshine.

Tonight’s accommodation is extremely cheap—about 5.30 CHF. But it’s also very basic:
- No Wi-Fi;
- No shower;
- Heating doesn’t work (probably hasn’t for years), Only a 95-watt bulb hanging from the ceiling for light and warmth (I had to take a bulb from the next room);
- Toilet is an outhouse;
- Toilet paper must be brought or bought separately, a roll of “Kazakhstan-style” toilet paper for about 0.18 CHF.

The positive surprise is that there is electricity, and the cleanliness is actually better than that terrible hotel in Trabzon. Still far from perfect, but good enough for a night—so I don’t need to use my tent today either.